Every once in a while, there is that rare moment that, in hindsight, we call transformative. Rarer still, are those moments that you know are transformative when they occur. Such is the case this morning.

It’s only 6:30am but since this is Balquhidder, Scotland the sun rose almost 2 hours ago on this gorgeous morning. Still, it is only slightly over the ridges of the eastern mountains. The air is cool, about 48 degrees F and I feel the warmth of its rays on the left side of my face. The grounds of Monachyle Mhor farm are stunning. I hear birds, so many birds, going about their morning. The windsock, which is in the foreground of my view, is being disturbed intermittently by gentle zephyrs. Beyond the windsock is a lush green sheep pasture dotted with dozens of sheep and nestled between two small lochs. The pasture rolls into a crescendo of green hills changing to a thick pine forest and continues to climb up the mount, that the locals call a Monroe, to its green treeless, craggy peak. Every few minutes small cumulus clouds pass in front of the sun and the shades of green change following the shadow.

As I sit here, alternating between writing and listening, my mind begins to wander, “Maybe I should have reserved more than 2 nights,” and then I breathe and focus on the present bucolic morning setting. As if to put an exclamation point on this serene scene, a faint half-moon sits in the southwest sky just about the peak of the mount, and I think, “Can this be any more perfect?!”

We arrived at Monachyle Mhor, a very unique boutique hotel in Perthshire, Scotland, last night after a very arduous journey, the details of which are already forgotten to history. Our room is in a building that I imagine housed farmworkers at some point in its history. It is simple and cozy and includes all the amenities that these 2 pampered travelers would need, including a coffee maker, electric tea kettle, TV and even a gas fireplace. This is one of the more traditional rooms, but we could have been adventurous as they offer an eclectic offering of accommodations, including a small stand-alone cabin, a tiny home, a converted horse trailer and even interestingly designed structure that zigzags into the trees that provides a literal bird’s eye view of the surrounding landscape. This is truly a “one-of-a-kind” place.

After quickly settling into our room, we were just in time for a much-desired pre-dinner cocktail and then took our seats for dinner. Spoiler alert, the dinner was nothing short of delectable. The online reviews of the restaurant are excellent and if last night’s dinner is any indication, these reviews, as good as they are, don’t do it justice!

The dining room was not fancy, and I would have been disappointed if it was. The better adjective would be “lovely”. The view from your table is the same wonderful view I previously described. As Jeanmarie does not eat any seafood or fish, we were presented with both the main menu and the vegetarian menu. Each menu simply shows “Starters” and “Mains”, but dinner was so much more. We were served 5 courses with an additional option for dessert. So, 6 courses in all.

After selecting the wine, 2017 Segla Margaux, our friendly server took our order. For my starter I selected the Wild Sea Bass, Romesco, Fennel, and Padron Peppers, and Jeanmarie chose Braised Fennel, Romesco and Pedron Peppers. For our mains I opted for the Scotch Beef, Duxelles, Kohlrobi, and Wild Garlic, and Jeanmarie ordered Charred Jersey Royal Asparagus with Wild Garlic and Pine Nuts.

Included in the cost of our meal (which is included as part of the room reservation) was the following; an amuse-bouche, a serving of a Scotland Oyster with shallots and lemon, a starter, another amuse-bouche and then a main. As our server left with our order an amuse-bouche was placed on the table for each of us. There were two, a small serving of beets with a beet root crème fraiche, and the second was wooden spoon filled with finely chopped raw fresh vegetables and herbs. Nicely done!

Following the amuse-bouche the oysters were presented, but since Jeanmarie doesn’t eat seafood, they served me two oysters and gave Jeanmarie a small serving or corguette (zucchini) with a bitter orange sauce with a mild Scottish cheese. This is not the first time that I have had oysters from Scotland, and it definitely will not be my last. These oysters are amazing!

Both Jeanmarie and I thoroughly enjoyed the appetizers. The Sea Bass was light, flaky and delicious. Jeanmarie really loved the charred fennel, and the vegetables were a perfect complement to both. Executive head chef, Marysia Paszkowska serves only locally grown vegetables and even the venison (which we did not have) is from the surrounding hills. The starters began to show off her style.

As our starter plates were removed, we were presented with another surprise offering, small cups of tomato and basil bisque. It was so good that it heightened our anticipation for our mains. We were not disappointed.

Each of the mains were prepared and served flawlessly. The beef was a perfect medium rare and the charred asparagus was cooked to perfection. The vegetables, once again, were a great complement to each dish. In a word…delectable. The Margaux was a great selection for the meals we chose if I do say so myself.

For dessert, Jeanmarie selected the Dark Chocolate Delice with bitter orange, hazelnut and rosemary, while I chose the Selection of British Isles Farmhouse cheese. These were complemented with tea for Jeanmarie and a double espresso and a Sautern, Chateau Filhot, Grand Cru 2010, for me.

Jeanmarie and I both feel that this was among the top meals we’ve ever experienced.

Monachyl Mhor Restaurant and Hotel - Review

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